11 on Kajeng review: a boutique haven of tranquillity nestled away in Ubud, Bali
The cream of the crop.
While there’s a bevy of cracking hotel chains offering an array of experiences for everyone across the famed Indonesian island, there’s something to be said for the unique charm and bespoke service of Bali’s best boutique hotels. We checked into 11 on Kajeng in Ubud to enjoy a tailor-made stay that revives the timeless spirit of the Island of the Gods.
While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.
Review of 11 on Kajeng
On an average day, the centre of Ubud is a nerve-grating snarl of idling tourists and immovable traffic. It’s one reason why those in the know usually avoid this part of town. But just minutes from this chaos lies a haven of tranquillity.
I arrived by car, which I realise may have been a mistake. The main entrance to 11 on Kajeng is located on busy Kajeng Street, which hosts a wildly popular crafts market. Dodging bikes, meandering tourists, and the occasional oblivious child, the car crawled down the street at a speed that made a snail’s pace look like that of a Formula 1 car. Top tip: the hotel has a back entrance that’s far more accessible.
But when I finally pulled up in front of the hotel and ascended the stairs to the lobby, I was soon enveloped in a serenity that recalls the Bali of old. The friendly reception team welcomes guests with cold drinks and smiles in a cosy alcove rendered in vintage Balinese décor and overlooking a courtyard laced with abundant greenery.
The welcome sets the tone for the rest of the stay. Around every corner, 11 on Kajeng sports hand-picked vintage furnishings that showcases Bali’s traditional craftsmanship and carefully considered details that include old-school artwork and fresh flowers. The total quiet is also surprising. This is an adults-only retreat – though I barely see any other guests – and staff are unobtrusive, though always available by WhatsApp.
A passion project
11 on Kajeng is the culmination of a dream for expat couple Tom and Bina Philip. Some 12 years ago, they visited Bali and fell under the spell of its emerald hues and warm smiles. “We knew instantly that this was where our hearts truly belonged,” says Bina. At the time, they were both working corporate jobs in Dubai, but amid the suits and endless meetings, they nurtured a hope to return to Bali. And when the chance to take over an existing property came up, they seized the opportunity.
Situated between the serene Juwuk Manis rice paddies and popular sites like Ubud Palace and the town’s many restaurants and cafes, the location was perfect. What followed was several years on a steep learning curve as they worked to transform their new acquisition into 11 on Kajeng.
Somehow, it worked. As The Tomina Group, Tom and Bina now also manage several villas across Bali and have launched a bar, restaurant, and nightclub called The Blue Door, which has become one of the island’s favourite spots.
A villa retreat
11 on Kajeng is a truly intimate property of just five villas, which is exactly why the team can focus on offering tailored hospitality that goes above and beyond to meet guests’ needs.
After a swift check-in, I was led to my Deluxe Sunset Private Pool Villa. The spacious haven takes its name from the sunsets that fall over the private terrace, which features a small pool sandwiched between a lush green wall and cascading water feature, a cosy seating area, and even a koi pond.
Like the rest of the hotel, the villa is dressed in vintage Balinese style. The centrepiece is a plush four-poster bed flanked by heavy nightstands – all in dark woods – but even the coffee and console tables are charmingly old-fashioned pieces in light wood. The earthy colour palette of whites, greys and browns is brightened with light pops of red and blue, while textures – from the rattan floor mats and wall hangings to the metal-and-glass chandelier and polished lava stone floors – add further visual interest.
Even the bathroom has been given extensive thought. The rich teal and grey room features a double vanity and mirror made in traditional Balinese woodcraft, while the sinks are salvaged steel and feature bronze-look taps. Somehow, each piece comes together to create a cohesive whole. It’s only when I venture to the sliding glass doors that give onto the open shower that I encounter the first of many surprises the team have put together for my stay – a traditional Balinese flower bath in the standalone stone tub. Enjoying a soak in the alfresco surroundings as dusk descends was easily my favourite way to end the day.
The boutique touch
The flower bath – which guests can order ahead of time – is just one of many offerings 11 on Kajeng has curated to help guests tailor their perfect stay. My next surprise, an in-villa massage, is another. The hotel works with well-trained local therapists to offer a curated selection of massages and nail treatments that guests can enjoy in the comfort of their villas. My therapist set up a full spa situation on my pool terrace and within minutes, I was enjoying a relaxing foot-soak and an hour-long Balinese massage that melted away every ounce of tension. Rolling off the portable massage bed and into the villa’s private pool extends this moment of zen.
While there’s no on-site restaurant, guests are just minutes away from some of Ubud’s best dining. Sweet Orange, located in the nearby rice paddies, is a popular choice. Guests can also ask the hotel reception to place takeaway orders from several local restaurants, including The Tomina Group’s The Blue Door. On my last night, unwilling to venture out, I ordered a pizza and queued up a film on the TV’s Netflix to enjoy a cosy evening before an early flight.
Of course, guests can choose to order breakfast to their villa – there’s a good variety of options available, from pastries to açai bowls. But – if influencers are to be believed – no trip to Bali is complete without a floating breakfast. And so, on my last morning at 11 on Kajeng, I was met with my last surprise. Staff members arrive to load up a bamboo tray with a truly indulgent spread – there were pastries, fresh fruit, and a granola bowl – and gently set it floating in the villa’s private pool. Perched on the pool’s steps and with a good book in hand, it makes for a truly idyllic start to the day and may have just been my favourite moment of the stay.
Final thoughts
I’ve had many enjoyable stays at Bali’s big-brand hotels over the years, but this experience reminds me that the island’s boutique properties are always worth consideration. 11 on Kajeng hits a sweet spot that combines an unbeatable location with unique, considered design, and personal, authentic service. For those looking to stay in Ubud, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better spot. It’s no wonder this is one of the highest-rated boutique hotels on the internet.
Find out more about 11 on Kajeng or Book through Booking.com
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