Where and what to eat in Athens: embark on a culinary journey through Greece’s capital
Sample street food, fine dining, and more phyllo than you can shake a stick at.
Athens isn’t just famous for its ancient ruins – it’s also a treasure trove of mouthwatering culinary experiences. Centuries-old recipes meet creative twists here, making it a food lover’s paradise. From classic tavernas to food tours and more sweet treats than you can probably handle, here’s where and what to eat in Athens (be sure to pack your stretchy pants).
Where and what to eat in Athens
Did you know the world’s first cookbook was created here in Greece? Back in 320 BCE, the Greek poet and philosopher Archestratus, also known as the Father of Gastronomy, wrote a humorous poem called Hedypatheia, giving tips on using the best ingredients to create unforgettable dishes.
And Greece still lives up to that legacy. Athens has evolved into a gastronomic hotspot with vibrant markets overflowing with seasonal fresh produce, succulent seafood, artisanal cheese, and olive oils. Whether indulging in simple gyros or savouring fine dining with Acropolis views, Athens delivers unforgettable flavours at every turn.
This guide introduces you to the city’s diverse dining scene – from budget-friendly street food to mid-range tavernas and high-end restaurants, along with a neighbourhood breakdown to help you discover where to eat.
Flavours on the go: street food and casual eats
Who doesn’t love tasty, affordable snacks you can grab while on the move? Athens is a street food haven, offering everything from tiny push carts and hole-in-the-wall joints to bustling casual dining and take-out spots. With most bites priced under 6 EUR, indulging in deliciousness without blowing the budget is easy. And while Greek classics shine, you’ll find slabs of gooey pizzas, overfilled sandwiches and lick-worthy gelato to tempt the taste buds.
Koulouri
For many Athenians, a Koulouri and coffee is the ultimate breakfast combo. The sesame-crusted bagel-style bread ring is crunchy on the outside, soft inside and usually eaten plain or with sweet or savoury toppings. Pick them up from a bakery or a bright yellow street kiosk for around 0.6 EUR. Fun fact: We stumbled upon a Koulouri production site pumping out around 6,000 rings daily, sampling one straight from the oven.
Gyros
This iconic Greek street food wraps juicy slices of pork or chicken, fries (yes, potato fries!), tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki in warm, thick pita bread. You’ll spot the rotating towers of sizzling meat at the storefront. And to sound like a local, it’s pronounced ‘yeh-ro’. At Bairaktaris near Syntagma Square, we enjoyed the brisk yet friendly service, and the lamb Gyros was a standout with succulent meat. Volvi, a no-frills kiosk at the Evripidou Street entrance to the central market, eschews the fries and focuses on grilled pork skewers or beef meatballs with quality fillings.
Souvlaki
Here’s where things can get a little tricky. In Athens, Souvlaki usually means grilled pork or chicken skewers served with pita bread, tzatziki, tomatoes, and onions. But one place we visited wrapped it like a Gyros! Confused? So were we. It turns out it varies by region. Tip: if you see Kalamaki on the menu, it typically refers to grilled meat skewers – so don’t hesitate to ask.
Spanakopita and Tiropita
These flaky phyllo pies are perfect for a quick bite or light meal and best consumed fresh out of the oven. The Spanakopita is packed with spinach, lemon juice, and feta, while the Tiropita is stuffed with feta and egg. We first tried these classic Greek pastries at Harry’s Kitchen, where we loved the pies and enjoyed hearing Harry and wife Yiouli’s story of setting up shop after retiring. Now, they serve up delicious pastries day after day.
Loukoumades
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, you’ll love loukoumades: fried doughnut balls traditionally topped with honey and cinnamon. At this local chain, the endless toppings made it hard to choose. Still, we finally settled on a decadent chocolate drizzle and vanilla ice cream combo that definitely hit the spot. The bite-sized balls are perfect for sharing – if you’re feeling generous, that is.
A taste of Athens: coffee culture and sweet treats
When our Greek friend invited us for coffee, we had no idea it would turn into a 2.5-hour chit-chat! As she explained, “meeting for coffee” is more about catching up on life – gossip, politics, news – than the coffee itself. It’s how many Greeks approach food and drink: a social experience, not a quick gulp and go.
Greek coffee
Made in a small brass pot, this traditional coffee is brewed over hot sand, resulting in a black coffee with a slightly grainy texture, but not as strong as it looks. We tried this in the cute Cherchez La Femme cafe opposite Mitropoleos Square, where they served a sweet treat called Loukoumi, similar to Turkish delight on the side.
Espresso coffee
Athenians have also embraced an espresso coffee culture with roasters like Dope, Tailor Made, and Samba impressing. Given the number of days of sunshine Greece experiences, espresso-based iced coffees have become the norm, coming in two variations – Freddo Espresso and Freddo Cappuccino.
Freddos
A perfect Freddo Espresso is a freshly pulled double shot of espresso shaken over ice to aerate without watering it down, strained and served over ice. A Freddo Cappuccino – our new ‘go to’ – follows the same process but topped off with a layer of cold, textured, foamy milk. Of course, coffee pairs perfectly with a snack, and Athens’ bakeries and cafes deliver. Now you have to choose what you should have in the hand not nursing your Freddo.
Bougatsa
A breakfast staple, Bougatsa features crispy phyllo filled with creamy vanilla custard and a dusting of icing sugar. Savoury versions with meat and veggies exist, but the sweet option reigns supreme.
Baklava
This indulgent dessert, whose origin story is hotly contested across the region, layers phyllo with chopped nuts drenched in honey syrup. You’ll see trays of them in bakeries across Athens. Smyrni Baklava has an incredible selection, but you’ll find equally delicious versions throughout the city. Tip: always order an extra one (for later on).
Chocolate
Some bakeries also sell chocolates and candies. Beware of the foil-wrapped parcels, as they contain the most addictive caramels, nuts, jellies and irresistible combinations. We stumbled across Aristokratikon, which has exquisite chocolate art loaded with chocoholic favourites. Established nearly 100 years ago, they have had a lot of practice. Visit during special holiday festivities like Greek Easter to be tempted beyond imagination.
Tavernas and authentic Greek dishes
When looking for more than a quick bite, Athens teams with welcoming restaurants, many family-run, and a down-to-earth service style inviting you to relax and savour the meal.
Tavernas are at the heart of Greek dining culture, serving a rich variety – from hearty stews and grilled meats to fresh seafood and vibrant salads. Mezze restaurants, with their ‘small plates’ designed for sharing, let you sample a little of everything. Some favour the Greek spirits tsipoura or ouzo as the ideal beverage pairing for a more traditional experience.
Greek cuisine has hundreds of dishes, reflecting regional influences, cultural traditions and family recipes passed down through generations. While this article highlights some classics, these were some of our favourites.
Appetisers or mezze (small plates) are a delight in Greece. We would typically order three to five dishes between the two of us, with bread on the side, and it was more than enough. Greeks are known for their generous portions. Dolmades, bite-sized morsels of rice, herbs, and sometimes minced meat wrapped with grape leaves and lemon were particularly addictive. We also couldn’t resist the Saganaki – a lightly fried slab of graviera or kefalotyri cheese. Our cholesterol levels may have taken a hit, but it was worth every bite!
Dips like Taramosalata, made from salted cured fish roe and Tzatziki, a garlicky cucumber yoghurt combo, are often served with pita bread. The Grilled Octopus we tried at Ouzeri Lesvos was so tender with a smoky flavour and served simply with olive oil, lemon and oregano. The glass of ouzo paired beautifully.
Mains dishes were generally hearty and satisfying. Our favourite Moussaka was at Liondi Taverna near the Acropolis metro. This classic had layers of sautéed eggplant and ground meat, topped with rich béchamel sauce and baked until golden. Similarly, Pastitsio was a comforting baked dish of layered pasta, ground meat and a creamy béchamel topping reminiscent of Greek lasagna.
As lovers of lamb, we couldn’t resist Kleftiko, slow-cooked with lamb, potato, veg, garlic, and herbs wrapped in parchment paper to lock in the flavour and so tender. Stifado is a rustic stew of beef, rabbit, or sometimes goat. You’ll be dipping your bread to soak up the flavoursome sauce. On a food tour (more on this below), we had the best Keftedakia, Greek meatballs with aromatic herbs, in a small Kafeneio (café) near Varvakios Central Market.
The salads in Greece were a revelation. The tomatoes, featured in so many dishes, were juicy and bursting with flavour, and combined with fresh Mediterranean herbs and other vegetables, were a highlight. The iconic Horiatiki (Greek Salad) is a must-mention; however, if you spot Dakos on a menu, try it. This Cretan dish features chunky tomatoes, mizithra or feta cheese, but dig deep to reveal the crunchy barley rusks below. It was a go-to for a fresh, light meal.
At Dexameni, a local park side taverna in the upper section of Kolonaki, we sampled a Lentil Salad with mushrooms and a Beetroot Salad, tender boiled beets combined with a yoghurt dressing and sprinkled with walnuts. Both were tasty simplicity on a plate. After trying Beetroot Salad once, I couldn’t resist ordering it repeatedly.
Do you have room for dessert? If any of these sweet treats are on the menu, you won’t want to miss them. Ekmek Kataifi is a decadent delight with a syrup-soaked shredded phyllo base, topped with silky custard, whipped cream and a sprinkle of crushed nuts. The zesty Portokalopita (Greek orange cake) brings together phyllo dough, yoghurt and a generous dose of orange rind and syrup for a refreshing citrusy finish.
And then there’s Galaktoboureko. Don’t try to say it fast, though. This creamy semolina custard pie wrapped in layers of crisp phyllo and bathed in syrup became another favourite.
Food tours: eat like a local
Another way of exploring a country’s culinary traditions is through a food tour. For us, the Alternative Athens food and market tour was spot-on. Not only did we meet the people behind the food while learning the history behind traditional dishes, but we also ventured off the beaten track to try flavours we likely would have missed. The walking aspect was a bonus, as we soaked in the city’s landmarks, architecture, and everyday life along the way.
Cooking lessons are an excellent choice for those looking to dive even deeper. These hands-on experiences often include selecting fresh ingredients from the local market or the venue’s own farm. And naturally, the best part is that you enjoy the fruits of your labour alongside your cooking buddies. Full disclosure, we were lucky enough to be treated on a selection of these tours, but while the sessions were complimentary, we wholeheartedly recommend the offerings.
Central Market and neighbourhoods
Like many European cities, a central market is essential to the local food scene. Athens’ Varvakios Central Market is no different. This covered market has operated since 1886 and is bordered by Evripidou, Athinas, Sofokleous, and Aiolou streets. Upgraded to EU hygiene standards before Athens hosted the 2004 Olympic Games, the primary market is separated into two parts. The covered market houses the fish and meat markets, with the open-air fruit and vegetable market on the other side of Athinas Street. Discover a mind-blowing array of food and related products strolling the perimeter streets, as our tour guide had us do.
The sounds, the shouting, and the teasing by vendors are all part of the game and worth embracing. Open from early till late afternoon, except Sundays, Varvakios is busiest in the morning. Look into Varvakios’s corridors to discover a few long-established tavernas serving classic dishes daily. These budget-friendly establishments add to the overall liveliness of the market.
The Monastiraki, Plaka, and Syntagma neighbourhoods are all near Athens’ major attractions, and they have everything from street food and casual cafes to bakeries, traditional tavernas, and local markets. Putting an upmarket spin on gourmet food store come delicatessen is Ergon House Athens, which offers fantastic meals and an extensive range of Greek products in an animated environment.
For those looking to continue the night after dinner, Psiri and Gazi are the perfect neighbourhoods. These lively districts have trendy diners and tavernas that serve traditional Greek fare and creative spins on the classics. After your meal, you’ll find no shortage of bars and nightspots buzzing until the early hours.
Exarchia, with its rebellious spirit, is home to affordable, delicious eats. There’s something for everyone, from tavernas to street food and vegetarian-friendly options. Warehouse, a well-put-together cafe, casual eatery and bar, is worth checking out, though it can get hectic on weekends as locals visit one of their favourites.
Kolonaki, right next to Exarchia, is its stylish counterpart. This chic, upscale neighbourhood is known for its trendy cafes, gourmet restaurants and refined tavernas – maybe even the kind of place you’d bring your fluffy dog.
For foodies: elevated dining in Athens
Looking for something a bit more edgy and innovative? Today, talented chefs reimagine Greek flavours by blending tradition with contemporary techniques, crafting familiar and creative dishes. But it’s not all about Greek food; some excel in international cuisines, including Japanese, Thai, Mexican, and Kurdish. This creativity is reflected in the 2023 Michelin Guide, which features 31 outstanding dining venues in Athens.
One standout is the Japanese-themed NYX Rooftop at the Academias Hotel, where you can enjoy spectacular views of the Parthenon alongside a Japanese fusion menu that surprises and delights. We trusted our attentive waitstaff’s recommendations and savoured mezze-style sharing plates, like the soft-shell crab sushi. Simply scrumptious.
Sense, a rooftop restaurant at AthensWAS Hotel, located beside the Acropolis, offered a 5- or 7-course tasting menu with a refined take on classic Greek recipes paired with Greek olive oils. Perhaps the best endorsement came from a nearby diner – a young girl who polished off the Rose and Greek coffee dessert featuring a delectable white chocolate mousse and simply licked her plate clean.
Some final thoughts
Before heading to Greece, my lovely wife was, let’s say, less than thrilled about the prospect of two months of Greek food. Her prior encounters had her bracing for a culinary onslaught of mince, feta, tomatoes and eggplants. In her mind? Stodgy, heavy fare. But – spoiler alert – she was wrong (sorry, Darling).
We were both completely blown away by the diversity and depth of Greek cuisine on our Athens adventure. From street food stalls to neighbourhood tavernas and rooftop dining, we discovered a gastronomic scene as vibrant and varied as the city itself. For visitors to Athens, the only challenge is where to start.
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