We review Hotel Empress Zoe, a wisteria-covered escape made up of traditional townhouses in Istanbul, Turkey
A property named for a remarkable Byzantine Empress.
A property named for a remarkable Byzantine Empress.
When staying in Istanbul, location is key – the busy streets of Sultanahmet are home to the Hagia Sofia, Grand Bazaar, and other key sights, but it’s tricky to find a peaceful base away from the madding crowd. Hotel Empress Zoe can only be described as warm, from the cosy interiors to the friendly welcome. It’s less than five minutes to Sultanahmet Square and although it appears small from the outside, hidden by purple wisteria flowers that climb up the walls, it consists of several traditional Turkish townhouses overlooking an ancient Turkish hammam, making the hotel feel like you’re stepping into a local home.
While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.
The story of the Byzantine Empress Zoe is as colourful as modern-day Turkey. Hers is a tale full of love, banishment (by her to her own sister!), lots more love, an alleged poisoning (by her to her then husband), banishment (of her to an island), co-empressing (with her sister who she didn’t like), some more love, and all the while she was working to end corrupt practices and to reform imperial policies. So it comes as no surprise that a hotel in the now capital pays homage to her legacy. (Sidebar: there’s an iconic mosaic of her inside the Hagia Sophia.)
The interiors here feature plain white linens spiced up with historical artefacts, patterned textiles and traditional folk art and paintings, including one of former ruler of Byzantium, Empress Zoe herself. The most authentically Istanbul feature however, is the softly purring tabby cat who is regularly curled up on the sofa in reception.
Hotel Empress Zoe has a wide choice of rooms, which you’re led to via a spiral staircase that disappears into the ceiling when you enter. Our double room was small, taken up with a large, fluffy white four-poster bed. A personal favourite was the sofa-slash-daybeds adorned with plump cushions in the corner of the room, offering the ideal spot to curl up with a book or watch life go by on the street outside. I also loved the marble bathroom, with a shower entered via a high archway and plenty of recyclable toiletries.
On the bigger side, guests can opt for a Double Room with Terrace, where you can enjoy drinks overlooking the sea. Elsewhere, the hotel is divided into Chez Zoe, featuring suites with private terraces, living rooms and Ottoman-style kitchenettes; Villa Zoe, where rooms have private courtyards, hammam bathrooms and carved, stone daybeds; and finally Maison Zoe, which houses triple and deluxe rooms perfect for families.
Although Hotel Empress Zoe doesn’t have a restaurant, there are plenty of spots to enjoy a drink. They have both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks to enjoy outside or on the rooftop. With every room, you’ll get their delicious buffet breakfast included, which is a lovely mix of sweet pastries, yoghurt, and spreads, along with savoury cold cuts and salad paired with traditional Turkish tea or coffee. Plus, there are lots of restaurants on the same street to explore, and within five minutes you’ll be in the heart of Istanbul’s old city, where you can find everything from kebabs and kofte to Turkish Delight and baklava.
To reiterate, from the outside you would never expect the wealth of hidden spaces to relax and enjoy a drink in Hotel Empress Zoe. First up is the rooftop, which is a large, terracotta-coloured space dotted with tables, chairs and loungers that overlook the ruins of the neighbouring hammam and the Marmara Sea beyond. The hotel serves drinks here from 5pm every day in summer, ensuring you get a front-row view to sunset over the city, and in winter, they’re served by an open fireplace.
On the first floor, you’ll find a homely, bright dining space with wooden tables, chairs and mosaic-adorned mirrors where breakfast is held. This leads to my favourite area, the garden, which seems to go on forever and is completely covered in leafy climbing plants. When in Turkey, do as the Turkish do – we grabbed one of the hotel’s backgammon boards and a cold drink and whiled away a phone-free afternoon playing in the sun-dappled garden.
Find out more about Hotel Empress Zoe or Book through Booking.com
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