We review Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li, an enchanting shikumen property nestled in the Xuhui District

Capella hotels and resorts have been sweeping World’s Best awards for good reason: the luxury hotel group consistently scores top marks not only in above-par hospitality and Michelin-grade cuisine but in authentic cultural immersion. Capella Shanghai was to be my debut at staying at one of the brand’s properties, and it’s fair to say that it is a true urban sanctuary. 

Built in the traditional Shanghainese Shikumen style, the design concept embodies the spirit of the lane which it inhabits, Jian Ye Li. Inside, a team of experienced Capella Culturists ensured a perfect stay, and tbh, you could, if not enticed by city exploration, hide out at the hotel for multiple days without venturing toward dizzying city lights. 

I, however, sought a balance of the two contrasts: a weekend of Shanghai’s famed skyscrapers by day, and breezy evenings back on the historic laneways that make up the quaint Xuhui District. 

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own

Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li review

A warm welcome

What stood out throughout my stay was the service. “Welcome home”, greeted the check-in staff as I was escorted to my villa, where everything was set to my pre-filled questionnaire preferences. Each make-up and turn-down service by housekeeping was meticulously thought through.

Here, the little details show they are paying close attention, and that’s next-level service. For example, I didn’t know I’d need a heated eye mask after a long flight, but finding it placed next to my extra hug-pillow was just the soother. 

Rooms and suites

With design by Jaya Ibrahim, the hotel is all villa, with one-, two- and three-bedroom offerings that start at a spacious 111 square metres in size. Each option has a private courtyard, a parlour for visitors and a fully equipped entertainment room.

I checked into a Shikumen Villa richly appointed with a Chinese-European design that incorporates silk textures, mahogany furnishings, and soft cream linens. You first step into a verdant courtyard and parlour, and then next floor up there’s a stylish mezzanine area with TV and bar. I spent plenty of time here enjoying cups of green tea and snacks, while my partner raided the mini-bar (complimentary, except alcoholic beverages). We’re not the sort that touches bedroom furniture with outside clothes on, as many of our Chinese friends, and this spot provided a relaxing space to recline without having to fully prepare for the night.

When we were ready, however, the bathroom had all the means to prepare but also to soak at leisure. A standalone tub sat with salts, and Fredrick Malle products were provided. Thicker robes hung here, whilst in the bedroom were lighter robe options, which was a thoughtful touch. The thicker robe was handy when we wanted to perch on the private rooftop for a little stargazing, and the thinner one was better for use in the room. 

The bedroom was large enough as a hotel room itself, plus it included a walk-in closet. Again, thoughtful touches dotted throughout the space. Drawers had all the possible chargers you could need, there was mosquito repellent, and even nail care amenities.

Night one was the best sleep I’d had all throughout our entire one-month Asia trip. The extra hug pillow, the scented candle burning, and the plush king bed meant I dozed off in less than 10 minutes, blissfully awoken the following morning by bird song (yes, really! It’s that kind of place!).

Food and drink

On site, the star dining destination is Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire. We have to say star because it does, in fact, hold a Michelin star. This is the internationally celebrated French chef’s first culinary concept for Mainland China, and the stunning interior is based on a Parisian salon, yet sprinkled with 1930s Shanghai glitz and glam. We had a set lunch menu, of which the standout dish was the Dalin scallops. Don’t shy from the bread basket, which comes fresh from the downstairs bakery.

Speaking of which, La Boulangerie is the casual local hangout for all things baked, or you can just do drinks at Le Bar, adjacent to the restaurant. Daily breakfast is served at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, with popular set menus. I preferred going a la carte each morning on the Chinese items, which include dumplings galore.

The gym and spa

Capella’s wellness facilities are housed in two of Shanghai’s shikumen villas within the Jian Ye Li estate. The first is an Auriga spa area, with seven treatment rooms, flotation tanks, salt-wall lounge, vitality pool, sauna and steam rooms. 

The other is the gym, featuring large equipment in one room and weights in another. There’s a small dip pool in the corner, not quite large enough to do laps (this is a historic building, after all), but enough for a soak. Personal training services are also offered.

Things to do

We had just two days to do Shanghai. I was worried about our language skills, and before travelling, friends told us we needed apps like WeChat to make payments. I didn’t want to download and figure it all out for just a couple of days, so I instead tried Klook for the first time as an alternative. Honestly, the time and effort saved was completely worth it, and the prices are far better than when I’ve used other apps, so I really rate it.

We first used it for a ticket to go up the Oriental Pearl Tower, and all I had to do was scan my ticket at the entrance. There’s a transparent walkway there that is not for the faint of heart! Then, the next day, we did something more exciting. At Xuyan, there’s an Immersive Tang Dynasty Royal Banquet, where you basically are transported back to the ancient, prosperous era, with a traditional feast and even a chance to dress the part. We loved it, and our photos were hilarious. If you want to try something different, I highly recommend it. Booking the experience on Klook was a breeze, and everyone in Shanghai seemed very familiar with it, so it was easy to explain to any entrance staff, even if they spoke limited English.

Getting there

Shanghai Pudong Airport (PVG) is well-connected with the UK across all the main carriers. Upon arrival, you’ll need to download the DiDi app for local rideshare services; however, public transport is also available. Guests may inquire with Capella for luxurious private transfers, meaning your Capella experience begins and ends at the gate. Why not?

Find out more about Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li or Book through Booking.com  Book through Expedia

But wait, there’s more…

• On our trip across China, we stayed at Upper House Chengdu. Here’s what it was like. 
• Further south, we reviewed the iconic Raffles Singapore to find out why it’s one of the finest stays in all of Asia
• If you’ve got Chinese food on the brain but have run out of annual leave, we’ll at least keep you satisfied at the best Chinese restaurants in London (for now)