Vineyard spotlight: We share a bottle with Laura Rhys, Master Sommelier of Gusbourne Estate

There’s no doubt that English sparkling wines are having their moment, and the first time I tried a bottle of Gusbourne Estate at The Londoner Hotel was enough to warrant a journey to its source. Set in the heart of Kent, the estate benefits from a cool maritime climate and chalk-rich soils that mirror those of Champagne. As warming temperatures subtly reshape the map of fine wine, this corner of England is increasingly seen as one of Europe’s most exciting terroirs.

Interview with Laura Rhys, Master Sommelier of Gusbourne Estate

Setting the scene

Gusbourne sits at the forefront of this shift. Its wines, precise, elegant and quietly assured, have helped redefine expectations of what English wine can be. With growing international recognition, listings in leading hotels and airlines, and a reputation built on meticulous estate-grown fruit, Gusbourne is no longer a curiosity, but a benchmark: not just excellent for England, but excellent by any standard.

We took a Southeastern train from Stratford to Ashford Station (tip: book directly to avoid booking fees and save more), then a 15-minute taxi ride to the Gusbourne vineyard to chat with Master Sommelier, Laura Rhys.

Your gorgeous vineyard is set in one of England’s most exciting wine regions. What is it about the terroir here in Kent that makes it so well-suited to producing world-class wines?

Our vineyards in Kent are very special. They are just six miles from the sea, with a very coastal influence in one of the warmest and driest corners of the country. The vineyards are low-lying – planted up to only 40m above sea level, on clay and sand soils, which are rich and heat-retentive. The combination of all these factors allows us to harvest beautiful grapes with great ripeness.

Comparisons to Champagne are often made. Where do you see the similarities, and where does English sparkling carve out its own identity?

I can understand why comparisons are often made to Champagne. At Gusbourne, we use the traditional method, with a second fermentation in the bottle and extended ageing on lees, so there are clear similarities in both approach and quality. However, while we respect the heritage and influence of Champagne, our focus has always been on expressing the unique character of our vineyards and their sense of place here in England. 

At Gusbourne, we see English sparkling wine as having a distinct identity of its own. Our cooler climate brings remarkable purity, precision and freshness to the wines, while the maturity of our vineyards allows us to achieve real depth and complexity. As part of a dynamic and creative English wine industry, we’re able to combine exceptional craftsmanship with a spirit of innovation, creating sparkling wines that are unmistakably English while standing confidently alongside the finest wines in the world.

How do you approach pairing food with your wines at the estate?

Our wines are very gastronomic, and I love to match them with food. Our Head Chef, Anthony Coppard, and I work closely together in pairing our wines with his seasonal menus. Sometimes a particular wine will shape the dish, or perhaps Anthony will have an idea for a dish using something very seasonal or local, which will inform which wines we pair. Ultimately, it’s about finding balance in flavours and textures – finding wines and dishes which will highlight each other. It’s great to be able to work with so many local, seasonal ingredients, which makes the whole process all the more fun. 

We loved the rosé pairing. What characteristics make it ideal for accompanying fruit-based desserts?

Our sparkling Rosé is always a great match with desserts, although I also think it’s perfect as an aperitif or to match with lots of savoury dishes too; it’s quite the chameleon! 

As a wine, it has a great balance between soft, summer fruit notes, orange citrus and a hint of spice – showing ripe, juicy fruit notes alongside a really lovely freshness, which is great for fruit-based or creamy desserts. 

You’re now widely listed in leading hotels and restaurants. How quickly have you seen British hospitality embrace English wine?

I think that in many ways there has been a fairly quick shift in terms of how English wines are served in restaurants and hotels in the UK. It was a slow burn for a while, with a small number of amazing supporters of English sparkling wines – but I think the last 10 years or so have seen a huge shift in how sommeliers, wine buyers and guests embrace English wines. It’s hugely exciting to see ever-increasing selections of English wines on wine lists, including in by-the-glass offerings. 

How has climate change impacted grape growing in Kent over the past decade?

Ripeness levels and harvest dates have certainly shifted in the 20 years that we’ve been growing and harvesting grapes, yet alongside broadly riper fruit, we also see unpredictability in our weather.

What are the main challenges currently facing the English wine industry?

One of the main challenges facing the English wine industry is awareness. While interest in English wines continues to grow, particularly in international markets, there is still a significant opportunity to introduce more consumers and trade partners to the quality and diversity of what England has to offer.

Encouragingly, whenever I speak with distributors and consumers overseas, there is genuine excitement about English wine. The next step is continuing to build that understanding and recognition. Collaboration across the industry will play an important role in helping to educate new audiences, develop markets and build on the strong foundations that have already been established. The potential for continued future growth, both at home and internationally, is incredibly exciting.

Which of your wines would you recommend as an introduction for someone new to English wine?

I’d recommend our Brut Reserve 2022. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and showcases the elegance of Chardonnay alongside the slightly fuller, rounder notes from Pinot Noir and Meunier. It’s full of vibrant citrus and orchard fruit notes, soft and round in the palate with a lovely toasted, nutty character from lees ageing and a beautiful freshness on the finish.

Kent is fast becoming a destination for wine lovers. How does the experience here compare to more established wine regions?

It’s wonderful to see Kent establishing itself as a destination for wine lovers, and I think what makes the experience here so special is the combination of world-class wines, beautiful English countryside and genuine hospitality.

Kent itself is a fantastic place to explore. There’s a rich history, stunning landscapes, and its proximity to both London and to mainland Europe make it an easy and interesting destination.  There are lots of beautiful historic towns to explore, such as Canterbury and nearby Rye, excellent restaurants, country pubs and, of course, an increasingly impressive collection of wineries. One of the joys of the region is that it’s possible to visit a few vineyards in a single day without spending hours travelling between them. Although I’d recommend taking a few days in Kent and allowing time to make a full day of it at Gusbourne! As a region that’s finding its identity in real-time, there’s an energy, ambition and spirit of innovation here that visitors often find incredibly exciting, and that’s a large part of what makes the experience so memorable.

Finally, Gusbourne’s Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noirs?

Yikes. Tough one – but Blanc de Blancs I think! It’s a wine that holds a special place for me as it’s the first wine we produced at Gusbourne back in 2006, and continues to form a vital part of our identity.

Frequently asked questions: Gusbourne Estate