Like the city itself, Tokyo’s hospitality scene can be overwhelming to navigate, especially for first-timers. There are as many hotels as there are neighbourhoods, each boasting a wealth of facilities and catering to different types of travellers. There’s one, though, that people in the know keep on their radar: Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo. We checked in to discover a charmingly old-world property nestled in a former imperial enclave.

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

Review of Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo 

Imperial homage

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo review exterior of hotel
Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo and its impressive gardens

Completely hidden in a tranquil spot of Tokyo’s northern Bunkyo district, Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo occupies a 12-acre site that feels miles away from the city’s frenzied streets. The hotel’s history begins during the Meiji Era, when then-Prime Minister Yamagata Aritomo built a mansion and garden on the site in 1878. He named this bastion of peace Chinzanzo and invited visitors to share in the beautifully landscaped garden. 

Aritomo’s gardens were destroyed during World War II, though the Three-Storied Pagoda – known as the Shiratama Inari Shrine – and a 500-year-old sacred tree were spared and are now landmarks in the current day iteration. Today, visitors from around the world visit the pristine gardens to enjoy this legacy of hospitality and wander the tranquil paths that wind through over 10,000 trees and several lakes. It’s also a popular spot for local couples to take wedding portraits – I see more than a few while strolling.

Every season brings a different experience here, from iconic cherry blossoms in spring to snow-dusted camellias in winter. Then there’s the alluring Tokyo Sea of Clouds Effect, a mist performance that engulfs the gardens in a striking mass of low clouds, which looks different every day. 

Old-world revival 

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo interior of lobby
Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo review interior of lobby

It’s hard to get a sense of the sheer scale of Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, though you get a slight impression as you enter the cavernous lobby, with its expansive main area flanked by a check-in desk. It’s only as you begin wandering the endless carpeted hallways looking for restaurants hidden around corners, the quiet spa – or indeed, the garden entrance – that you realise: even the hotel building itself is a sprawling maze.

The other aspect of the hotel that reveals itself as soon as you walk through the doors is its adherence to an old-world aesthetic that’s perhaps best described as a Japanese take on England’s Edwardian-Georgian décor with a touch of modern luxury. The carpeted foyer is overhung with an opulent chandelier that’s as complex as it is shimmering, and gives way to an expansive sitting area of green marble flooring, wood-panelled walls, and elegant armchairs upholstered in royal blue paired with plush sofas in dusky pink. It’s practically a portal to another, more glamorous era.

A true bolthole

After an efficient check-in and a chat with the knowledgeable concierge to work out my movements for the rest of the day, I headed upstairs to my entry-level Prime Superior Room. Inside, the sense of old-world charm I found in the lobby continues across the 45sqm space. 

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo review interior of guest room
Our room’s seating area boasted sweeping views over the hotel’s gardens

The room’s obvious selling point is the sweeping view over the hotel’s lush gardens. In early December, the mildly cold weather has already turned some of the trees’ leaves fiery shades of bright red and burnt orange, offering a smorgasbord of colour against the other trees’ shades of green. Taking this exceptional view in on a daily basis was undoubtedly one of my highlights during my stay.

Framing the views are heavy drapes featuring patterns of foliage that reflect the natural landscape outside; above the twin beds, framed artwork follows suit with plants as its focus. Adding to the vintage atmosphere is a seating arrangement composed of a plush, upholstered armchair and ottoman, and a standing lamp and shade, as well as heavy, polished wood furniture, an expansive work desk, and a cupboard that hides the TV and (another anachronism) DVD player. 

Touches of Japanese meticulousness are on display, too. The beds are made up with multiple layers of crispy white linen and finished with runners over the end; the well-stocked minibar has Arita-yaki porcelain; and the expansive marble bathroom features premium L’Occitane amenities, fluffy robes, and a separate deep-soak bath and rainshower. 

All the extras

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo review swimming pool
The hotel’s swimming pool

Let’s make this clear: you won’t enjoy everything Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo has to offer on a quick weekend stay. Their facilities are simply too extensive. 

To begin with, there are eight chef-led restaurants, where you can try everything from Kaiseki cuisine at Kinsui,  stone-grilled meats at Mokushundo, and afternoon tea at Le Jardin. I only managed to try Il Teatro, the enormous (and sophisticated) Italian restaurant which looks over the gardens. This also functions as the breakfast space, where you can enjoy decadent made-to-order meals of Japanese or Western bent, which I really enjoyed. As you’d expect, the in-room dining offering is also excellent; I can attest to the quality of the tempura meal served with all the trimmings.

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo interior of onsen
The hotel has an onsen available for guest use

For a little R’n’R, the hotel also has a full wellness setup at the Spa. An array of pampering massages and facials by L’Occitane are available at Yu, The Spa, and there’s also a pool flooded with natural light under a retractable roof, and a well-equipped 24-hour gym. The best part? A proper onsen with traditional Japanese wooden baths filled with water brought in specially from the Izu Peninsula on Honshu’s Pacific coast.

Final thoughts

Tokyo’s hotel scene may boast everything from top-tier modern luxury to kitschy capsule stays, but Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo is arguably one of the most unique hospitality offerings in the city. While its location may not be as central as others, its meticulous blend of history, old-world design, comfortable facilities, and Japanese hospitality – and of course, that incredible garden – means it’s definitely worth a visit.    

Discover more about Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo  or Book through Booking.com

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