Endless rows of olive groves stretch toward the horizon as we journey towards Ostuni, the white city that crowns the undulating landscape of Puglia. Nestled in the heel of Italy’s boot, this region is best explored by car, unveiling its enchanting coastline, whitewashed hilltop towns, and distinctive architecture. While Alberobello is famed for its iconic trulli stone houses, Puglia’s hidden gems lie in its masserias—historic farmhouses now transformed into luxurious retreats. Among them, Masseria Santo Scalone stands as an unforgettable escape.

Masseria Santo Scalone review

Steeped in history

Masseria Santo Scalone swimming pool
Around the swimming pool is where guests can unwind under the iconic blue skies

Tucked between the Adriatic Sea and the village of Ostuni, Masseria Santo Scalone stands as one of the region’s oldest fortified estates, a secret well worth discovering. Now owned by the Spadoni family, the masseria has retained its 14th-century character, and most of its structure, though it was restored in the 1900s.

After navigating a few wrong turns, we finally arrive at the towering gates, their impressive stature concealing the beauty within for just a moment longer. As we pass under the stone archway, the rugged courtyard reveals itself, framed by the restored complex and view of the surrounding countryside. A warm welcome awaits us, and we are led into the main house to begin our stay.

Inside, the cool limestone walls, iconic to southern Italy, offer instant relief from the heat outside. Vaulted ceilings draw the eye upward, and the elegant simplicity of the interior leads us through a series of inviting spaces: a lounge bar, a dining area, and a terrace where, in the summer months, guests can enjoy al-fresco dinners, savouring seasonal dishes sourced from the masseria’s own gardens.

The room

guest room at masseria santo scalone
Rooms and suites here promise vaulted ceilings and exquisite stone work

What was once a collection of peasant quarters, stables, and granaries has been lovingly transformed into a selection of rooms and suites, each uniquely designed to reflect cultural themes and furnished with treasures from around the world.

Our Suite with Patio is situated in the 19th-century wing. As we step through the archway adorned with fragrant herbs and flowers, I make a mental note to enjoy breakfast on the patio the next morning, enveloped in the calming scents of rosemary and lavender.

Inside, the suite is a harmonious blend of old and new. The vaulted stone ceilings and antique furnishings speak to the masseria’s storied past, while contemporary accents—vivid red pillows, sunny yellow lamps, and a paisley-patterned headboard—add a playful burst of colour. Ancient wrought iron tie rings line the bedroom wall, an indication that the room was once the farmhouse’s stable. A quick glance confirms that modern comforts have not been overlooked: a coffee machine, television, Wi-Fi, and air conditioning ensure that our stay will be as luxurious as it is comfortable.

Curated for the senses

Masseria Santo Scalone exterior terrace
With a fragrant planted garden, a stay here is a treat for all the senses

At Masseria Santo Scalone, every element has been thoughtfully curated to engage the senses, from the vibrant colours of the landscape to the lingering fragrances of the herb garden. The swimming pool, nestled discreetly beside the main house, offers a serene escape, with burnt orange daybeds providing the perfect perch for soaking in the tranquillity. As the breeze stirs the air, the sweet scent of four o’clock flowers mingles with the earthy aroma of rosemary, enveloping you in a soothing, sensory embrace.

At dusk, the sky blushes with shades of pink and blue before giving way to amber tones, signalling the arrival of aperitivo hour. With a glass of Moscato in hand, we ascend the stairs beside the ancient chapel to the rooftop, where we are greeted by sweeping views of the Mediterranean maquis that encircle the estate. The setting sun casts a golden glow on the masseria, bathing it in an ethereal light that seems to capture the very essence of Puglia.

Gastronomic delights

Masseria Santo Scalone restaurant
Local seasonal dishes are the order of the day at the masseria’s restaurant

Dining on the restaurant’s terrace, we found the colours of the landscape mirrored on our plates. A vibrant tomato salad, handmade orecchiette, and freshly caught local fish brought the flavours of the region to life, each bite a celebration of Puglia’s seasonal bounty. The secluded setting allowed for a quiet, intimate meal, far from the hum of conversation, with a glass of crisp Chardonnay enhancing the serenity of the evening. As twilight settled in, we lingered over our meal, soaking in nature’s symphony.

A retreat to remember

Masseria Santo Scalone offers an idyllic escape for those seeking tranquillity and simplicity in the heart of the countryside. With experiences like traditional cooking classes, wine and olive oil tastings, horseback riding, guided cycling tours, and boat excursions, there’s something to suit every taste. And with the promise of a soon-to-open spa, this hidden gem is set to offer the ultimate in relaxation and rejuvenation.

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