Naifs restaurant review: flavoursome vegan sharing plates in a unique Peckham location
Veggies speak volumes.
Veggies speak volumes.
While England’s capital is jam-packed full of eateries, finding truly great London restaurants can be a little tricky. However, we’re here to help with that, as we eat our way through the different boroughs on a quest for flavour enlightenment. And our most recent find is a hideaway in Peckham that lets the vegetables do the talking. Take a look at our review of Naifs, a charming spot with a relaxing atmosphere and friendly, attentive service.
These days, Peckham in south London is brimming with trendy dining establishments. When you’re heading to Naifs for the first time, don’t be surprised if you question your GPS for taking you into a largely residential part of the neighbourhood. Perched on an unassuming corner, on a quiet street, the only way we recognise that Naifs is even a restaurant is by the fairy lights glowing in the windows and the green band of paint that wraps around it.
Inside, the vibe is welcoming and warm. The team greets us with a hearty smile and thanks us for coming to visit before we’ve even sat down. It’s a Friday evening and we booked weeks in advance to get this table. It’s only 7pm and over half of the space is full.
The kitchen in largely open plan with some seating at a bar table for those who want to watch the chefs at work. Strings of paper cranes and garlands are dotted across the walls and the small bar in the main dining room as tealight candles flicker from the light wood tables. It’s cosy yet simple and feels very hygge.
The concept here is all about sharing. There’s a seasonal set menu that changes every 8-10 weeks and that offers around five dishes. On top of that, a selection of appetisers and desserts are available for individual purchase if you’re feeling extra hungry.
The set menu is more than enough food to get you full without feeling stuffed to the brim, but we couldn’t resist the sound of the fried tomato with almond ricotta appetiser, so ordered a portion of these to kick off our experience. We weren’t disappointed. The crispy coating against the fresh tomatoes was a texture and flavour delight with the almond ricotta adding a luxurious element that we were really impressed with.
For drinks, there are a selection of cocktails and mocktails alongside a range of natural and biodynamic wines, beers, and ciders. The housemade lime and soda was tart and delicious while the Rhum and Ginger cocktail had a great balance of booze and non-boozy elements.
We were excited when the main dishes arrived and each and every one looked beautifully presented. Radicchio and lentil salad with garlic tofu sauce and sunchoke crisps was a light way to ease into the experience.
The glazed aubergine was served on a moreish carrot romesco that we couldn’t stop dipping our TOAST sourdough into (in fact we had to ask for extra bread.)
My favourite was the smokey celeriac with savoy cabbage, kumquat, and green peppercorn sauce that had a richness that I couldn’t get enough of. My dining partner was enamoured with the braised potato and white carrots with mushroom preserve and leek and horseradish cream which, I agree, was a total flavour sensation.
After all these magical dishes, I had to know what their sweet offerings were like and can attest that they are really supreme. With only two desserts on the menu, the stewed apples with umeboshi and whipped almond custard was an old classic veganised extremely well, while the chocolate mousse paired with yuzu brought a new flavour combo to a beloved favourite.
Our meal at Naifs was everything I hoped for and more. I’m always impressed when a restaurant can show me (a 30-year vegetarian) new ways to enjoy vegetables, and the team did just that. The warm service was the cherry on the top.
Learn more about Naifs
But wait, there’s more…
[wpforms id=”612″]