More than simply a way of sustaining ourselves, the things that we consume tell stories of how cultures have morphed and changed throughout history. And that’s one of the reasons that when we’re visiting a new location, we love to experience a local food tour. Run by the international tour agency Devour Tours, we recently joined the Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Food Tour and Market Visit where we ate our way through this iconic city and learned a thing or two about tagliatelle al ragù (it’s not the same as bolognese!)

You may find our guide to the best boutique hotels in Bologna, Italy useful too.

While this tour was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Food Tour with Market Visit review

Meeting our group

It was a crisp winter Saturday morning when we headed over to the bustling Piazza del Nettuno to meet with our guide from Devour Tours. It was easy to spot Benedetta with her red Devour Tours bag, and soon eight of us hungry explorers got down to introductions.

Benedetta explained that she has a degree in Art History and a real passion for good food, so we immediately knew that we were in safe hands. As we set off, she was soon telling us tales of the architecture that we were passing on the way to our first destination and explaining how food plays an integral role in the lives of locals in the area.

Eating our way through the city

Of course, we had to start our day as Italians do, by enjoying an espresso while standing up at one of the city’s longest-running patisseries. This place was so gorgeous and was absolutely packed, but luckily we got a spot thanks to being with the group.

Alongside our coffee, we sampled a traditional Emilian torta di riso (rice cake) that has been made and enjoyed in Bologna for centuries. Benedetta explained that, while Lombardy may be the famed area for rice growing in Italy, historically, the region of Emilia Reggiano was also a large producer, hence why the cake is crafted from rice flour.

Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Food Tour with Market Visit Mercato delle erbe
Exploring Mercato delle Erbe with a local is a must. Photo: Devour Tours

Next stop was one the city’s most renowned food havens: Mercato delle Erbe, where we met a local cheese monger and sampled some of the most exquisite Parmigiano Reggiano, aged to different levels. We learned about how to spot real and fake Balsamic Vinegar and what seals to look out for to ensure that the parmesan is locally produced.

On the other side, one of the market’s longest-running operators prepared mortadella sandwiches for us along with some takeaway cold cuts for an upcoming destination. As a vegetarian, they made me one filled with cheese, which was very delicious.

After sampling some of the seasonal local produce at one of the vegetable stands, we headed out to a different part of the city for an authentic osteria experience. While these days, we may think of osterie as places to wine and dine, we learned that back in the day, it was more about the wining than the dining.

The spot we went to first opened in 1465, and you probably wouldn’t even be able to find it without a local. This was such a wonderful experience, as the space is family-run and absolutely buzzing with art and posters across the walls and a warm and unpretentious atmosphere.

Again, they had a table saved for us, which was super lucky as, even though it was barely 12pm, local patrons were packing the space and cheersing with friends and family as they caught up on the week’s events.

Only serving wine, we sampled some of the house’s sparkling varieties while Benedetta laid the table with our cold cut haul from earlier. Spider bread, cheese, salumi, and mortadella lined the bench, as we sat back and listened to the history of the Osteria and how it has changed over time.

Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Food Tour tagliatelle al ragu
Without a doubt, one of the highlights of the tour was learning all about the famed tagliatelle al ragù. Photo: Devour Tours

Then it was time for the grand event: tagliatelle al ragù – with lashings of wine. Benedetta walked us around the corner to an elegant trattoria beloved by locals for its pasta. Here, we feasted on the iconic pasta and learned about how different families make the iconic dish and how it moved and morphed into spaghetti bolognese.

Us vegetarians weren’t left hanging though. We were served an absolutely divine pasta dish crafted with onions and tomatoes that had been slow cooked for hours. I have to shout this out as my favourite pasta dish across all our weeks in Italy. It was rich and moreish and what I wouldn’t give to have their secret recipe!

The final stop was a walk to see the famed towers where we sampled some more sweets as we learned about the restoration efforts for the famous architectural wonders.

Final thoughts

At the end of three hours, we were absolutely stuffed! They don’t skimp on portions on this tour, in fact I had half a sandwich and biscuit to take home with me for midnight snacks! Benedetta was such a delight. She answered all of our questions and was so insightful about the food, the architecture, and the art that we encountered along the way. She even gave us personal recommendations for different restaurants to sample across the city.

Devour likes to keep the size of the tour group intimate so that everyone can hear the guide as you walk around the city, and I think this definitely makes a difference to the quality of the experience.

If you want to explore Bologna with a local and to sample some quality dishes of the region, then do not hesitate to book this tour. Just be sure not to eat breakfast before you go.

Find out more about Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Food Tour with Market Visit run by Devour Tours

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