We review Upper House Chengdu, a serene Qing Dynasty property where old meets new

It was my first time staying at an Upper House property, a group that has cleaned up on awards in the realm of hospitality and design, thanks to their individualistic houses made for discerning travellers.  The Collective’s esteemed mansions currently reside across China in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Chengdu, with additions in the works. Each house is uniquely imagined and heavily influenced by location. Upper House Chengdu (formerly known as The Temple House), for example, draws on tea culture and the tranquillity of Chengdu through time, situated within a carefully restored century-old Chinese courtyard built during the Qing Dynasty. 

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own

Upper House Chengdu Hotel review

En route to Japan, I did a stopover in Panda City, to well, see pandas, but also to experience what Chinese acquaintances have sold me as one of the country’s most interesting, yet laid-back cities. Upper House Chengdu would be the base for the two-day exploration. However, here’s why, upon leaving, I regretted not making this the focus of the stop, the main event.

The location

Upper House Chengdu is nestled between the laneways and courtyards of Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li Chengdu in Jinjiang District, near the 1,600-year-old Daci Temple. This was an area once populated by monks and scholars, and so holds a rich history, despite China’s fast and furious modernisation. 

You could say you get the best of both worlds, being situated here. I loved stepping between temples and glassy boutiques like Korean cult favourite Gentle Monster. It’s definitely in the heart of it all, and everything you need is within walking distance. But then you step through the Bitieshi Pavilion, and a breeze of calm hits your shoulders. The team are ready and able to cater to your every need, and that’s when the escapism begins.

Rooms and suites

Each of the house’s 100 rooms and 42 serviced apartments is an urban sanctuary, and though the hotel’s facade is like something out of a museum painting, the room interiors have a modern aesthetic that’s both peaceful and functional at the same time. I checked into a Temple Suite, and it was much larger than expected. 

The bedroom was separated from the living room and dining area, and while it was dressed in a chic contemporary style, I liked the little pops of character, like the tasselled light fixtures and the Chinese art periodicals. Amenities included the latest in tech (Bluetooth portable speaker, 46-inch smart TV that was actually compatible with our phones, and free, fast WiFi), plus a beverage station with a Nespresso machine, a wide variety of teas (this is China, after all) and a complimentary Maxi Bar with drinks and snacks (except wine, which is separately charged). Try and resist finishing the White Rabbit candy on every refill. I found it hard to.

The monochrome bathroom was dark in an Aman-style chic, though having black hair, like much of their Asian clientele, meant I couldn’t see what I was doing whilst styling in the mirror. A bit more light would have helped in that department.

The highlight, of course, was the gorgeous standalone deep soak tub, filled with Bamford toiletries and bath salts. The plug was one that didn’t pop open when you move around – few hotels can get this feature right, as I’ve found on many occasions, the water starts running. Not the case here. I could soak in Bamford for hours.

On the double vanity counter was also a pouch that contained travel-sized essentials such as moisturiser, mouthwash and dental kit. The Bamford moisturiser may or may not have found its way into my luggage.

Food and drink

The hotel has a nice mix of eateries to keep guests satisfied, no matter what mode of dress they’re in. On casual mornings, I enjoyed rolling out of bed and heading down to grab breakfast from the cafe. The buffet was one of the best I’d ever scooped, with both western and Asian breakfast items, plus guests may order signature local dishes such as the Sichuan beef noodles. The fruit platter included my favourite: dragon fruit. It was also available as a mini smoothie.

At Mi Xun Teahouse, in the haus of the spa, their Michelin-starred restaurant serves the city’s finest eco vegan and vegetarian Chinese cuisine, offering guests a unique opportunity to indulge in plant-based Sichuan dishes with flair. A farm-to-table tasting menu at a very reasonable ¥688 (£74) for two featured multi-course seasonal greats, including, at my time of visit, fried tofu puffs, handmade spinach noodles with Dan Dan sauce, and a burnt rice oak milk dessert. Ask for Tibetan wine to pair with for a truly special Michelin experience.

Tivano is their upscale Italian restaurant from Milanese head chef Riccardo Baronchelli, serving authentic Italian dishes with a global influence. That’s on house-made pastas, wood-fired pizzas and grilled meats. I went for the duck ragu on housemade pappardelle, which came with a delicious creamy parmesan fondue sauce, and finished with their gelato – aptly flavoured Sichuan Peppercorn for a local spin. I wasn’t looking forward to having Italian while in Asia, wanting to save space solely for rice, but in the end was pleased I did.

If you have room for more, there’s also Jing Bar, a jazzy cocktail den, and The Temple Cafe also acts as an all-day bistro after breakfast time.

The gym and spa

They’re big on wellness in Chengdu, where life is said to move at a slower, more contemplative pace, and Upper House has just the sanctuary. The Mi Xun Spa blends traditional Chinese medicine with proven Western therapies to offer tea-inspired treatments and sensory experiences. I had their signature massage. During spa treatments, I usually try and stay awake to really soak it all up, but I was so relaxed I fell asleep within seconds (or maybe it was the jet lag). I have no idea how good the massage was, as I woke right at the end from the deepest slumber. Good sign?

There’s also a gym, and a stunning turquoise indoor pool in the main building, which sadly I did not have time to use as there was too much to do…

Things to do

I religiously use GetYourGuide for local tours, and here I took the Chengdu: Hidden Dishes and Beers UNESCO Food Evening Tour, a three-hour tuk-tuk ride to the best hole-in-the-wall and family-run eateries, plus a bar. We also went to the Panda Breeding Base, but you have to book seven days ahead, and the website was rather confusing. So whilst I wasn’t planning on booking on GetYourGuide again as it was a little more expensive than booking direct, I ended up doing so as it was much easier, and the ticket is attached to your passport. You have to bring it with you in order to get in. 

Note that if you want to use Gmail or WhatsApp in China (which I needed to contact my tour guides!), you need to download a VPN. I have Surfshark or NordVPN. The firewalls in China are notoriously tough, so it’s always best to have two to ensure you’re not left hanging.

In two days, I felt like I had only lightly scratched the surface of Chengdu and its captivating community. I definitely plan on returning, and hopefully to the Upper House’s serviced apartments. This really is a glow-up on home away from home.

Getting there

Chengdu is well served by the major carriers from the UK, including direct flights from London Heathrow with Air China.  Upon arrival, the local rideshare app is DiDi, which you’ll need to download for a transfer from the airport to the hotel. Alternatively, guests may inquire with Upper House Chengdu for a private transfer.

Find out more about Upper House Chengdu or Book through Booking.com Book through Expedia

But wait, there’s more…

• If you’re heading to Hong Kong, check out The Upper House and our other must-stay boutique design hotels
• Find out more about the design behind the hotel in our chat with the master, Andre Fu
• Trip to China got you salivating? Start with the best Chinese restaurants in London before the long-haul jaunt.