While there’s a bevvy of cracking hotel chains offering an array of experiences for everyone across the famed Indonesian island, there’s something to be said for the unique charm and bespoke service of Bali’s best boutique hotels. We checked into 11 on Kajeng in Ubud to enjoy a tailor-made stay that revives the timeless spirit of the Island of the Gods.
While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.
Review of 11 on Kajeng
Hotel snapshot
Hotel: 11 on Kajeng
Address: Jl. Kajeng No. 40, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Rooms: 5 boutique villas/suites
Brand: Independent
Style: Vintage-elegant Indo-Balinese boutique
Location: Central Ubud, beside the Juwuk Manis rice fields
Adults-only: Yes, minimum age 15
Family-friendly: No, although the entire property can be booked for groups of all ages
Wellness: In-villa Balinese massages, facials, manicures and pedicures
Swimming pool: Main pool plus private pools in the Deluxe and Premier Sunset Pool Villas
Dining: Complimentary à la carte breakfast; in-villa dining; pool bar
Best for: Couples, honeymooners, solo travellers, boutique-hotel lovers and anyone wanting a peaceful retreat within walking distance of central Ubud
Price: Approximately £85 per night, depending on room type and season.
Welcome to paradise
Lounge in Deluxe Sunset Private Pool Villa
On an average day, the centre of Ubud is a nerve-grating snarl of idling tourists and immovable traffic. It’s one reason why those in the know usually avoid this part of town. But just minutes from this chaos lies a haven of tranquillity.
I arrived by car, which I realise may have been a mistake. The main entrance to 11 on Kajeng is located on busy Kajeng Street, which hosts a wildly popular crafts market. Dodging bikes, meandering tourists, and the occasional oblivious child, the car crawled down the street at a speed that made a snail’s pace look like that of a Formula 1 car. Top tip: the hotel has a back entrance that’s far more accessible.
But when I finally pulled up in front of the hotel and ascended the stairs to the lobby, I was soon enveloped in a serenity that recalls the Bali of old. The friendly reception team welcomes guests with cold drinks and smiles in a cosy alcove rendered in vintage Balinese décor and overlooking a courtyard laced with abundant greenery.
The welcome sets the tone for the rest of the stay. Around every corner, 11 on Kajeng sports hand-picked vintage furnishings that showcase Bali’s traditional craftsmanship and carefully considered details that include old-school artwork and fresh flowers. The total quiet is also surprising. This is an adults-only retreat – though I barely see any other guests – and staff are unobtrusive, though always available by WhatsApp.
A passion project
Exterior view of villa
11 on Kajeng is the culmination of a dream for expat couple Tom and Bina Philip. Some 12 years ago, they visited Bali and fell under the spell of its emerald hues and warm smiles. “We knew instantly that this was where our hearts truly belonged,” says Bina. At the time, they were both working corporate jobs in Dubai, but amid the suits and endless meetings, they nurtured a hope to return to Bali. And when the chance to take over an existing property came up, they seized the opportunity.
Situated between the serene Juwuk Manis rice paddies and popular sites like Ubud Palace and the town’s many restaurants and cafes, the location was perfect. What followed was several years on a steep learning curve as they worked to transform their new acquisition into 11 on Kajeng.
Somehow, it worked. As The Tomina Group, Tom and Bina now also manage several villas across Bali and have launched a bar, restaurant, and nightclub called The Blue Door, which has become one of the island’s favourite spots.
A villa retreat
Interior of Deluxe Sunset Private Pool Villa
11 on Kajeng is a truly intimate property of just five villas, which is exactly why the team can focus on offering tailored hospitality that goes above and beyond to meet guests’ needs.
After a swift check-in, I was led to my Deluxe Sunset Private Pool Villa. The spacious haven takes its name from the sunsets that fall over the private terrace, which features a small pool sandwiched between a lush green wall and cascading water feature, a cosy seating area, and even a koi pond.
Like the rest of the hotel, the villa is dressed in vintage Balinese style. The centrepiece is a plush four-poster bed flanked by heavy nightstands, all in dark wood, but even the coffee and console tables are charmingly old-fashioned pieces in light wood. The earthy colour palette of whites, greys and browns is brightened with light pops of red and blue, while textures – from the rattan floor mats and wall hangings to the metal-and-glass chandelier and polished lava stone floors – add further visual interest.
Bathroom interior
Even the bathroom has been given extensive thought. The rich teal and grey room features a double vanity and mirror made in traditional Balinese woodcraft, while the sinks are salvaged steel and feature bronze-look taps. Somehow, each piece comes together to create a cohesive whole. It’s only when I venture to the sliding glass doors that give onto the open shower that I encounter the first of many surprises the team have put together for my stay – a traditional Balinese flower bath in the standalone stone tub. Enjoying a soak in the alfresco surroundings as dusk descends was easily my favourite way to end the day.
The boutique touch
The flower bath – which guests can order ahead of time – is just one of many offerings 11 on Kajeng has curated to help guests tailor their perfect stay. My next surprise, an in-villa massage, is another. The hotel works with well-trained local therapists to offer a curated selection of massages and nail treatments that guests can enjoy in the comfort of their villas. My therapist set up a full spa situation on my pool terrace, and within minutes, I was enjoying a relaxing foot soak and an hour-long Balinese massage that melted away every ounce of tension. Rolling off the portable massage bed and into the villa’s private pool extends this moment of zen.
While there’s no on-site restaurant, guests are just minutes away from some of Ubud’s best dining. Sweet Orange, located in the nearby rice paddies, is a popular choice. Guests can also ask the hotel reception to place takeaway orders from several local restaurants, including The Tomina Group’s The Blue Door. On my last night, unwilling to venture out, I ordered a pizza and queued up a film on the TV’s Netflix to enjoy a cosy evening before an early flight.
Of course, guests can choose to order breakfast to their villa – there’s a good variety of options available, from pastries to açai bowls. But – if influencers are to be believed – no trip to Bali is complete without a floating breakfast. And so, on my last morning at 11 on Kajeng, I was met with my last surprise. Staff members arrived to load up a bamboo tray with a truly indulgent spread – there were pastries, fresh fruit, and a granola bowl – and gently set it floating in the villa’s private pool. Perched on the pool’s steps and with a good book in hand, it makes for a truly idyllic start to the day and may have just been my favourite moment of the stay.
Getting there and around
11 on Kajeng is in central Ubud, around 38km from Ngurah Rai International Airport. The easiest way to reach the hotel is by private transfer or taxi, with the journey usually taking around 60–90 minutes, depending on traffic. Bali’s roads can become particularly congested around the airport and southern resorts, so it is worth allowing extra time if you are travelling during busy periods. The hotel can arrange airport transfers in advance, which is the most straightforward option if you’re arriving with luggage.
Once you’re there, you won’t need a car for exploring central Ubud. Ubud Palace, the traditional market, Saraswati Temple, restaurants and shops are all within walking distance, while the rice fields around the hotel are easily explored on foot. For sights further afield, taxis, Grab and Gojek are useful, although pick-ups can occasionally be restricted on smaller streets. For day trips to places such as the Tegallalang rice terraces, Tirta Empul or Mount Batur, the easiest option is to hire a car and driver for the day. Scooters are another popular option in Bali, but should only be considered if you are an experienced, properly licensed rider and are comfortable with local traffic conditions.
Frequently asked questions: 11 on Kajeng
The hotel is at Jl. Kajeng No. 40 in central Ubud, close to the Juwuk Manis rice fields. Ubud Palace, Ubud Traditional Art Market and Pura Taman Saraswati are all roughly a five-minute walk away, while the Campuhan Ridge Walk is around 10–15 minutes on foot.
Yes. This is one of its biggest advantages. It is close enough to walk to Ubud’s main sights, restaurants and shops, while its position beside the rice fields means the hotel itself feels considerably more peaceful than its central location might suggest.
It’s particularly well suited to couples. The small scale, private terraces, tropical gardens and pool villas create a romantic and secluded atmosphere, while central Ubud is within walking distance for restaurants and sightseeing.
Yes. Both the Premier Sunset Pool Villa and Deluxe Sunset Pool Villa have private pools, terraces and koi ponds.
There isn’t a large resort-style spa, but guests can arrange in-villa treatments, including Balinese massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. This suits the intimate nature of the hotel particularly well.
The hotel is close to Ubud Palace, Ubud Market, Pura Taman Saraswati, Campuhan Ridge Walk and the Juwuk Manis rice fields. The hotel can also arrange excursions including cycling, temple visits, rafting, diving and Mount Batur sunrise hikes.
Yes. The hotel specifically positions itself as suitable for solo travellers as well as couples, and its small size and central location make it a good base for exploring Ubud independently.
Final thoughts
I’ve had many enjoyable stays at Bali’s big-brand hotels over the years, but this experience reminds me that the island’s boutique properties are always worth consideration. 11 on Kajeng hits a sweet spot that combines an unbeatable location with unique, considered design, and personal, authentic service. For those looking to stay in Ubud, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better spot. It’s no wonder this is one of the highest-rated boutique hotels on the internet.
Find out more about 11 on Kajeng or Book through Booking.com Book through Expedia
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