Tuscany may be famous for its incredible red wines and historic, art-filled towns, but as it turns out, there’s another compelling reason to visit this idyllic part of Italy. We recently checked into Terme di Saturnia to discover a thoroughly restorative retreat that combines wellness with la dolce vita.  

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own. 

Review of Terme di Saturnia

Tucked away in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, approximately halfway between Florence and Rome, Terme de Saturnia is a sprawling 120-hectare spa resort that’s been inviting guests to work on their wellness since 1919. In 2020, the resort underwent a thorough redesign by London-based studio THDP, which retained the property’s heritage and harmony with its surroundings while incorporating some modern comforts.

On arrival, there’s an immediate sense of calm and old-world charm here, as well as a few thrills for this motorsport enthusiast. I immediately spot a Ferrari Purosangue in the driveway, and in the expansive lobby, books on Italian cars (and wines) sit next to a table overlaid with water dispensers and wrapped sweets. 

Terme di Saturnia library
Browse the many books on cars and wine from the hotel’s designer library

While checking in, I quickly realised that this is the kind of place where most guests have been coming for years, which creates a convivial atmosphere. People greet each other as they pass, and robes are very much the attire of choice throughout (except for dinner, naturally).

Healing waters

Terme di Saturnia is built over a powerful, ancient thermal spring – reportedly one that’s over 3,000 years old – that’s renowned for its extraordinary antioxidant, muscle-relaxing, and transformative properties. The resort’s focus is to allow guests to bask in these healing waters. Guests can bathe in it to heal the skin, drink it to detox, or simply inhale its gentle scents to boost the respiratory system. Or, they can enjoy the dizzying array of facilities spread across 20,000sqm, from a massive, nature-inspired pool at its heart, to a plethora of thermal pools, whirlpools, hydromassage showers, and even Roman baths. I needed all three days of my stay to work my way through them all.

The magical waters are also used in the award-winning onsite spa, which boasts 53 cabins and offers a wealth of pampering treatments, all of which are designed for maximum effect and relaxation. 

I manage three treatments here, each as indulgent as the next. The signature Soul Massage eases muscles sore from weight-lifting; the Nutrimelist treatment – essentially a honey and almond oil wrap – leaves skin detoxed and well-nourished; while the Anti-Ageing Active Beauty facial is a customised ritual that leaves the complexion glowing. All were effective and thoroughly blissful. For guests looking for something extra, the spa has an array of aesthetic medicine and wellness programmes, along with several experts, including nutritionists and personal trainers.

Healing oases

Terme di Saturnia Suite with bedroom and living space
Each room and suite carries a quaint vintage-meets-countryside feel

Like the rest of the hotel, Terme de Saturnia’s 124 rooms have been designed to sit harmoniously within the surrounding countryside and have a slightly vintage feel to them. I checked into a 35sqm Deluxe room that’s tastefully furnished and overlooks one of the internal courtyard gardens. 

The open-plan space is thoroughly cosy and comfortable, with a sitting area for lounging, a work desk (handy when I have to put in a few hours with the laptop), and a walk-in wardrobe. And, starting each morning waking up in the plush king-sized bed to birdsong filtering in through the windows and a freshly brewed coffee sets a relaxing tone for the day ahead. The only fault? I could’ve used a few more conveniently placed charging points. 

Still, the space is charming with wooden floors overlaid with plush patterned carpets, a wallpapered focus wall behind the bed, and heavy drapery, all rendered in oceanic shades of turquoise blue, greys, and whites. The ensuite, tiled in travertine, has a rainforest shower and separate bathtub, and custom amenities infused with the region’s mineral waters – perfect for extending the hotel’s zen experience each evening.

Wellness central

Wellness may be the focus here, but Terme di Saturnia takes a holistic, enjoyable approach to the concept. If your well-being requires a little activity, the resort has several options for working up a sweat. There’s a driving range and 18-hole golf course, which regularly hosts tournaments; mountain bikes, e-bikes, and tennis courts; and a fully-equipped gym where I squeeze in a workout each morning.

Food and drink

Eating well is clearly integral to Terme di Saturnia’s concept of wellbeing, with two restaurants and a bar serving hearty, nourishing meals inspired by Tuscany’s gastronomic traditions. The culinary highlight is La Stellata, a restaurant that honours the cuisine of the Tuscan countryside and is perched atop a hill a few minutes’ drive from the hotel’s main building. Watching the sun slowly dip over the rustic landscape, bathing it in rich hues of pink and orange, while feasting on rich dishes – specifically, egg cooked in mashed potato and pecorino with truffles, and a unique gnudi dumpling pasta with Manciano ricotta cheese, spinach, tomato, and basil – and sipping a bold supertuscan red, makes for a thoroughly idyllic dinner. 

Meals at the hotel’s 1919 Restaurant are similarly wholesome, if a little less romanticised. Whether you’re here for the extensive breakfast buffet (wrapped in a robe, naturally) or more sophisticated Italian dishes for dinner, you’ll enjoy a solid meal with lovely views of the main pool. 

Terme di Saturnia
Terme di Saturnia’s bar was such a homely corner to enjoy a cocktail at

One of my favourite corners of the hotel is the bar, where each evening, I slip into a Chesterfield, surrounded by books and an unlit fireplace, to sip one of the signature cocktails – served with a full plate of antipasti in true aperitivo tradition.  

Final thoughts

It can be nearly impossible to find time to take a break and really switch off, but Terme di Saturnia makes it easy to truly relax. Even though I’m glued to my laptop and working intensely during my time here, I find myself more zen than I have been in months (the data from my Oura ring agrees). 

Whether it’s the healing waters, hearty food, indulgent spa treatments, daily workouts, or serene Tuscan countryside – all of which, I’m sure, contribute to my vastly improved sleep – I find there’s not an ounce of tension in my body as I begin the drive back to Rome. That’s when I realise that the magic of Terme di Saturnia isn’t in any individual feature – it’s in the fact that the resort creates a peaceful experience through every detail so that guests have no choice but to let their stresses slip away.  

Discover more about Terme di Saturnia or Book through Booking.com

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