Think of Portugal and destinations like Lisbon and the Algarve—or Coimbra and Nazaré, for the adventurous—spring to mind. But for those looking for an off-the-beaten-path locale with abundant natural charms and a traditional way of life, there’s only one destination to aim for: the Azores, a collection of nine islands off the Portuguese coast. In particular, intrepid travellers are heading to Pico to bask in total serenity. We recently visited the small island to review Adegas do Pico, a collection of just 13 stone cottages on the island.

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

We review of Adegas do Pico

The Azores’ third-largest island, Pico is just over 400 sq-km in size, but home to a population of just 15,000. Translation: you’re in for incredible tranquillity and natural landscapes. Those in the know come here to bask in the UNESCO-listed vineyards and wines, get a taste of the island’s whaling history, enjoy the hearty local cuisine, and hike Ponta de Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain.

Adega do Garajau view from window
Each adega promises views of the wild countryside or the ocean

With the island still holding onto a relaxed, more traditional way of life, there are no twee boutique hotels or big-name properties on the island. Instead, many visitors stay in adegas. These small stone cottages, built from large slabs of local volcanic rock, were once used as granaries, distilleries, and cellars; in recent times, they are more commonly used as social gathering spaces. Many old adegas had fallen into disrepair, but with the help of skilled local artisans, savvy entrepreneurs on the island are converting these into tourist accommodations that offer a traditional, historic, and character-filled stay.

Managed by Azores X, Adegas do Pico is a collection of these charmingly revitalised cottages, tucked along Pico’s north coast in the neighbourhood of Prainha, that allow guests to experience adega life in well-managed, pseudo-bed-and-breakfast fashion. Each cottage is nestled into its own slice of nature and sports a slightly different configuration.

Guests can pick their choice of one-, two-, or three-bedroom cottages—catering for up to six guests—tucked into pristine countrywide, sprawling vineyards, or set against the roaring ocean. All the adegas, though, boast vintage farmhouse charm.

Cottagecore charm

One of the collection’s smallest offerings, and where I stayed, Adega do Garajau is a cosy, one-bedroom cottage perched on a small outcrop with dramatic vistas across the North Atlantic Ocean. It’s hard to capture the raw majesty of this location. At night, the silence is as deep and vast as the inky black sky overhead; as the day breaks, the crashing ocean waves and soft pastel hues of dawn are enough to inspire the urge to paint—even if you don’t have an artistic bone in your body.

review Adegas do Pico interior of kitchen
At Adega do Garajau, guests can expect vintage vibes with homely touches

Outside, the volcanic stone cottage takes on a sturdy, stoic look softened only slightly by modern window shutters in a deep steel blue. Inside, Adega do Garajau retains authentic local charm with a rustic-chic look.

The main room combines a simple living area—there’s an orange, two-seater sofa and a hefty but small kitchen table with equally solid chairs—and a fully-functional kitchenette with a four-burner stove, vintage wood cabinetry, and Portuguese tiling. Modernity comes in the form of a washing machine and—thankfully—a WiFi router. In the bedroom, similarly vintage wood furnishings include two small twin beds dressed in branded linens and a small table that functions as a work table or dresser.

The Adega do Garajau harkens back to days of simpler living, but it certainly has everything you need for a great stay—including a breakfast tray stocked with local bread and butter, and plenty of tea and coffee. It’s easy to imagine holding up here for a few days, either solo for some serious relaxation or remote work—those early morning ocean views inspire some seriously prolific writing—or with a partner for a romantic getaway.

Adega do Garajau interior of bedroom
A good night’s sleep is guaranteed

Let’s be clear: Adegas do Pico is definitely not a hotel, and only approximates a bed and breakfast. If you’re expecting a stay loaded with full-service restaurants, a gym, and a spa, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, your adega is a home away from home, creating the perfect base from which to explore everything that Pico has to offer—just make sure you book a hire car in advance.

Of course, to ensure guests have a completely comfortable stay, Adegas do Pico has a “public” adega which functions as a hotel lobby. Here, you’ll find a reception area, coffee station, and even a little library.

Final thoughts

Hotels are all well and good—we’re big fans, after all, but there’s something special about arriving at a destination and living like a local. Adegas do Pico allows visitors to the island the chance to immerse themselves in the local history and way of life, enabling them to connect to the destination in a way that a traditional hotel simply can’t. It’s only been three days, but as I head to the airport, I’m already wondering if and when I might be able to come back to indulge in Pico’s slower pace of life and some real R’n’R.

Discover more about Adegas do Pico

Getting there: There is a direct flight a few times per week from Lisbon to Pico (and return) on SATA that takes about two hours and 45 minutes.

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