Most visitors to Lisbon choose to stay in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the districts of Bairro Alto, Alfama, and Principe Real. But just a short drive or tram ride away, the neighbourhood of Belém hosts some of the city’s most popular attractions—from the famous egg tarts at Pastéis de Belém to the dramatic Monasterio de los Jerónimos—and several hotels worth considering. We checked into Altis Belém Hotel & Spa to get a taste of this Lisbon quarter.

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

Review of Altis Belém Hotel & Spa

At first glance, it’s easy to dismiss Altis Belém. After all, it’s not located within Lisbon’s city centre, and arriving past 10pm to what—under the cover of night’s darkness—looks like a concrete block and sparse lobby to one side of a busy street, feels somewhat disorienting.

By the morning light though, the hotel’s subtle charms begin to reveal themselves, showing why it deserves to be a member of Design Hotels. The lobby is a considered blend of geometric lines and textures, with black floor tiles, a glass-tiled reception desk backed by a warm wood-panelled wall, an architecturally arresting staircase, and floor-to-ceiling windows offering views over the neighbouring dock and Tagus River.

This reception captures the spirit of the rest of Altis Belém, which features a striking, angular building concept by local architect João Almeida of Gabinet Risco and simple yet story-rich interiors by Fernando Sanchez Salvador and Margarida Grácio Nunes. Throughout, Altis Belém features a contemporary, chic design—think leather furnishings, a palette of black and white, and plenty of marble and granite.

As a whole, the property tells the story of the Portuguese Age of Discovery, an era in the 15th and 16th centuries which saw local explorers sail the high seas to establish Portuguese influence across the world. Fittingly, the Padrão dos Descobrimentos—the Monument of the Discoveries—which honours these explorers sits a five-minute stroll down the waterfront.

City-inspired boltholes

Altis Belem interior of deluxe guestroom
Every single room at the hotel has a different design aesthetic

There are just 50 guest rooms here, which is perhaps why it was possible to give each one a distinctive look. Carrying on the theme of the Portuguese Age of Discovery, each is named for and themed on former far-flung Portuguese colonies, from Ethiopia and Patagonia to Kyoto and São Tomé.

Room 215, where I’m staying, is inspired by the southern Indian city of Cochin (modern-day Kochi). Monochromatic black prevails throughout, from the minimalist armchairs and desk to the spacious bathroom, though this is enlivened by vivid pops of colour—a Barbie-pink carpet and lime-green chaise longue. The main feature, though, is the pink-and-gold-toned mural imprinted on a glossy black feature wall depicting Kochi’s flora and fauna from Kochi. Adding to the room’s story are angular furnishings and polished wood floors which pay homage to the wooden chests that were once made in Cochin and widely used to transport exports from the East to Europe.

The room is as functional as it is aesthetic. A tablet manages many room controls and hotel services; the fully-stocked minibar offers a Nespresso machine and range of local snacks; and floor-to-ceiling windows along one wall give onto a tiny balcony, and, as I realise upon waking the next morning, a view of the famous Tower of Belem.

Reasons to linger

The next morning, well-intentioned plans to work out are dashed when a staff member mentions the hotel’s gym doesn’t open until 10am—surprising, since the hotel hosts many business guests. Instead, the first port of call is Cafetaria Mensagem, the casual, all-day restaurant on the ground floor (be warned: you might need directions to find it). Breakfast involves a plentiful buffet in the bright, airy space, served with views over the marina. Afterwards, it’s worth spending a few minutes at the Library—really, an enclave on the hotel’s first floor—to browse the books on Portugal’s seafaring history.

In the evening, a visit to the hotel’s one Michelin-starred restaurant, Feitoria, is a revelation. Staff are engaging and entertaining, creating a comfortable environment for a solo diner. Chef André Cruz plates up an exquisite meal that highlights Portuguese flavours and ingredients while incorporating global influences—no, the seasonal eight-course menu is not too much—while sommelier Pedro Ramos creates a daring wine pairing composed of deliciously unique Portuguese wines.

38°41’ Gastrobar view of ocean
Slow down, and take in the views at 38°41’ Gastrobar

Rounding out Altis Belém’s offerings are 38°41’ Gastrobar—a chic spot named for the geographical coordinates from which Portuguese explorers departed. Wines, cocktails and bar bites are on the menu at the Gastrobar—get a table on the terrace.

BSpa by Karin Herzog, the Swiss brand’s only Portuguese outpost is a tranquil oasis offering an exclusive range of therapies, a heated indoor pool, and a series of bathhouse facilities. In the summer, head to the rooftop for the spa’s outdoor pool, which features plenty of space for basking in the sun and sweeping views of the river and Tower of Belém.

BSpa by Karin Herzog
If it’s relaxation you’re after, you’ll want to head to BSpa by Karin Herzog

Final thoughts

Altis Belém is a slow burn, allowing intrepid guests who delve under its surface to discover a hotel that’s confident enough in its offerings to skip the need to make a fuss. This isn’t a place of unfettered luxury, and it doesn’t intend to be. But with an enviable riverfront location, sumptuous Michelin-starred restaurant, chic wellness offerings, and comfortably appointed guestrooms, this is an under-the-radar gem of a boutique hotel on Lisbon’s fringes.

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