Of Wonderland and whimsy: we review JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa

Travellers to Vietnam have long been lured by the charms of Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, and Hanoi. But off the country’s southwest coast—on the fringes of Cambodia—lies an idyllic island that’s slowly gaining in popularity. With white sand coastlines, palm trees, and tropical weather, Phu Quoc was once a hidden secret beloved by locals. But this slice of paradise is waking up to its potential, and JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa is one of the island’s hospitality pioneers.

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa review

Hotel snapshot

Hotel: JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa
Address: Bai Khem, An Thoi, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Vietnam
Rooms: 234 rooms, suites, villas and residences
Brand: JW Marriott
Style: Whimsical, design-led luxury resort inspired by a fictional 19th-century university
Location: Khem Beach, southern Phu Quoc
Family-friendly: Yes, with family accommodation, kids’ club and children’s activities
Wellness: Chanterelle Spa, fitness centre, yoga and wellness activities, multiple pools, including the famous Lamarck University pool
Beach: Direct access to Khem Beach
Best for: Couples, families, honeymooners, design lovers, foodies and luxury travellers
Prices starting from: £250 per night, depending on room and season.

In the beginning

JW Marriott is one of those dependable hotel brands where you know what you’re getting, whichever city you’re in. Whether you’re bedding down in Ankara or Atlanta, Bangkok or Berlin, you know you’ll get a certain level of service and comfort. But on the island of Phu Quoc, the brand has pushed the envelope by roping in hotel design guru Bill Bensley—known for this zany, creative style—to not just design the resort, but create a whole concept. Drawing on Vietnam’s history as a French colony, Bensley takes guests back to school with Lamarck University, a fictional 19th-century temple of higher education that’s been remade into an inviting resort.

Back to school

It takes a certain mind to build a themed hotel from scratch, and few could do it with as much panache as Bensley. As soon as you step into the lobby, guests are swept into another world—one of a rather elegant university from a bygone era. Every element blends charming colonial elegance with creative elements. And you can’t fault the commitment to detail—from pennants and photos of old university sports teams to facility names and colours, everything is geared to remind guests that they are in a former university (or at least one of Bensley’s imagination). In keeping with the throwback theme, even the front-of-house staff are wearing dapper 20s-inspired outfits!

The resort is sprawled across a sweeping array of buildings—many of them housing guest rooms—and each named for a different university department, from archaeology and chemistry to biology and maths. The focal point, though, is the resort’s main street, where guests will find the hotel gym, a charming bakery, the spa, and a few little stores. Inspired by the lamp-lined streets of Hue, a popular tourist city in central Vietnam, this mimics the quad of a traditional university, where students hang out. There are even thematically appropriate French advertisements painted as murals on the building walls.

Class is not in session

When guests are ready for some downtime, they can check into the guest rooms, which feature Bensley’s eclectic style. As with most things this design maestro does, disparate elements seem to come together in a symphonic whole. At the Départment de Zoologie (Zoology department), I check into an Emerald Bay Room on a high floor.

Stepping inside, I immediately notice a blending of colonial style with whimsical touches. There’s a hodgepodge of patterned tiles, posters that really could’ve come from the natural sciences labs of a 1920s university, and wood-panelled furnishings everywhere. There are even funhouse mirrors, a velvet loveseat, and splashes of colour—the theme of this particular room is blood red.

There are two elements, though, that really bring the wow factor. The first is the plantation-style French windows that open onto a private balcony and postcard views of the ocean—so relaxing to wake up to. The second is the massive marble bathroom featuring two separate vanities, an open-plan rainforest shower, and an oversized standalone bathtub.

Extra-curricular activities

The jewel in the gastronomic crown at JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa is undoubtedly Pink Pearl. An unabashedly flamboyant space set in an oceanfront mansion, this is the worlds of Alice in Wonderland and Around the World in 80 Days brought to vivid life in shades of pinks and reds, and with plenty of whimsical elements. Helmed by Chef Olivier Elzer, French fine-dining is the key here, so be prepared to tuck into a degustation menu—and ask for one of the lush private dining rooms. This is the kind of spot you’ll want to book ahead, whether you’re staying at the hotel or somewhere else on the island.

I take most meals at Tempus Fugit, the more restrained but equally elegant main restaurant at the resort. Guests dive headfirst into a sumptuous buffet breakfast here, and there’s a solid menu of Vietnamese specials and international delights available all day—the pho is highly recommended. Don’t want to change out of your bathers to eat? No worries—head for Red Rum, where you can enjoy decadently fresh grilled seafood and meats.

Be sure to stop into the aptly named Department of Chemistry, where lab-coated mixologists concoct a dizzying array of delightful cocktails. Sipping on one of these while enjoying the fresh ocean breeze, vividly hued sunset, and eyeing the ceiling—emblazoned with the Periodic Table—is enough to send you into a blissful stupor.

It’s easy enough to while away your days at JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa by the pools, there are three big enough that you almost don’t realise there are other guests—or on the white sand beach, but you’d be missing out. The resort has quite a few other charms hidden up its sleeve.

There’s the Chanterelle Spa, an exquisite world of wellness where everything is inspired by Alice in Wonderland, from the staff uniforms to the intriguing disappearing hallway. 90 minutes here and the pressures of daily life won’t have you feeling like a Mad Hatter any longer. Then there’s the Department of Physical Education, inspired by old-world gymnasiums and one of the most extensive—and best-equipped—hotel gyms you’ll have the pleasure of working out in.

The resort also hosts a full roster of daily activities—many of them free of charge—that’ll keep guests on a school-like schedule. The 7am Hatha Yoga session is a relaxing way to kick off the morning, while the Lamarck University tour is a great way to see just how extensive the resort is—and just how much detail has been put into every element.

Getting there and around

JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay is on Khem Beach in the south of Phu Quoc, around 18km from Phu Quoc International Airport. The drive from the airport takes approximately 25–30 minutes, depending on traffic. The resort can arrange airport transfers, which is the easiest option if you want a seamless arrival. Taxis and ride-hailing services are also available on the island.

Phu Quoc is relatively easy to explore by road, but you won’t need a car if you’re primarily staying at the resort. JW Marriott is a destination in itself, with its own beach, pools, restaurants, spa and activities. For trips elsewhere on the island, taxis and hotel-arranged cars are convenient. The resort can also help organise excursions and island-hopping trips.

If you want to explore independently, scooters are widely available, although you should only ride if you are properly licensed and experienced. For families or groups, hiring a private car and driver for a day is generally more comfortable. The southern location also makes the resort particularly convenient for exploring An Thoi and the islands of the An Thoi archipelago, while Duong Dong and the island’s main night market are roughly 25–30 minutes away by car.

For international travellers, Phu Quoc International Airport (PQC) is the main gateway. Domestic flights connect the island with Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and other Vietnamese cities, while international routes, including Hong Kong, vary by season. If you’re combining Phu Quoc with Hoi An, Da Nang or Hanoi, flying is generally the most practical way to travel between destinations.

Frequently asked questions: JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa