A stylish slice of history accessible only by private boat: we review Praya Palazzo in Bangkok

Stretching along the Chao Phraya River banks, Thailand‘s capital is a captivating blend of rich cultural heritage, vibrant street life, an ever-evolving urban landscape, and a food lover’s delight. The incredible diversity of boutique hotels in Bangkok only adds to the allure, from luxurious riverside hotels with stunning skyline views to chic and design-led digs and cosy guesthouses tucked away in historic neighbourhoods. We recently checked into Praya Palazzo, an intimate, handsome century-old mansion now operating as a boutique hotel on the Chao Phraya’s eastern banks and only accessible by boat, yet in the heart of this buzzing city.

While this stay was complimentary, all thoughts and opinions are our own.

We review Praya Palazzo in Bangkok

This Palladio-style mansion was originally built as the residence of a Thai-Chinese nobleman with responsibilities in the Royal Court of Siam’s Customs Department. Formerly named Baan Bang Yee Khan, it is typical of the Italianate architecture of this period. Following the family’s departure in 1946, the property had various roles, including as a boarding and day school and later a vocational school.

Abandoned for 20 years until 2006, when Bangkok Architectural Professor Wichai Pitakvorrarat purchased the property, undertaking a four-year project to meticulously restore the dilapidated buildings and grounds. It’s now a grand bespoke heritage hotel with 19 rooms and suites, a swimming pool, restaurant, and private meeting spaces. Praya Palazzo celebrates its centenary in 2023 and is now under the stewardship of Thailand’s Montara Hospitality Group.

The look and feel

This hideaway feels a world away from Bangkok’s gleaming high-rises. Yet, it’s close to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, plus the bars, restaurants, and boutiques of lively Khao San Road. Praya Palazzo’s boat, operating 24/7, is a distinctly romantic and easy way to arrive. The private barge uses Phra Arthit Pier, providing direct access to the public river ferries and connecting transport.

Praya Palazzo’s vibe is friendly and welcoming, with an intimacy of service. The river-facing garden and courtyard, with its mature trees, lush plantings, and the pool at its centre, is a shady, relaxed setting that encourages lingering. The ever-present river is alive with a regular procession of ferries, long-tail boats, and cargo barges – and provides a captivating theatre of activity.

The rooms

Inside and out, the walls are painted in soft jasmine and dandelion yellow tones. Guest rooms feature vaulted ceilings, creaking dark chocolate wooden floors, expansive king beds, and nicely worn antique-style furniture. The retrofitted bathrooms are spotless, with rain showers and beaten copper or porcelain sinks. Some, like our Junior Suite, also have a luxuriously sized bath. Modern amenities, including a minibar, television, and WIFI, round out the picture.

The food

Praya Dining, the onsite all-day restaurant, has an old-world charm with its dark timber, cardinal red walls, glinting chandeliers, and cosy dining nooks. Breakfast combines an a la carte menu with a curated buffet to kickstart your day. Lunch and dinner is when this Michelin-recognised restaurant really shines. A new menu celebrating the property’s centennial takes diners on an enchanting gastronomic exploration of Siam’s Royal Cuisine from ancient Sukhothai and Ayutthaya to the more recent Rattanakosin Kingdoms.

Menu highlights are many, like the appetisers Latieng (prawn and pork wrapped in a delicate egg net) and a salad Pla Neu (grilled beef with betel leaves and fresh herbs). Mains like Kang Kua Moo Yang Bai Makam Orn (a red curry of grilled pork neck with young tamarind leaves) and Yum Kamin Khao Goong Sod (spicy white turmeric and Thai herb salad with prawns) also impressed. Having experienced several meals during our stay, I can see why in-the-know Bangkokians and well-informed visitors regularly cross the river to relish Praya Dining’s delights.

I recommend a cooking class with Executive Chef Rattana to delve deeper into Praya Dining’s historic and near-forgotten dishes. Who knew making the delicate egg net for the appetiser ‘Latieng’ could be so challenging? A Thai-inspired traditional afternoon tea served poolside is also an option, as are sundowner cocktails while watching the theatre of passing river traffic. And to complete the alfresco picture, restaurant staff will readily prepare your table under the trees for that genuinely romantic dinner.

The verdict

With its original design and rare history, Praya Palazzo is a step back to the golden period of Siam, when the royal court and nobles reigned. It is a tranquil haven and an escape from Bangkok’s hustle and bustle. Yet you have easy access to the city’s attractions. Having now experienced Praya Palazzo’s boutique offering, I’m unsurprised that many of the hotel guests we met during our stay were repeat visitors.

Learn more about Praya Palazzo or Book through Booking.com

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